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Cardiopelma cf. mascatum (Orange Flame Rump) Care Sheet

Reaching a maximum of about 2 1/2″ DLS this lovely little tarantula is a lot of WOW in a little package. I just about fell over the first time I saw an adult female. I do not believe photos can do it justice. You just have to see this one in person.

On their carapace they have a triangle reminiscent of B. emilia. Their knees are striped and their banded legs have some structural blues. If that’s not enough, all the way around their abdomen they’ve got what looks like orange flames burning over a black background.

Their unique colors and patterns are just icing on the cake. These tiny tarantulas are surprisingly hardy and vigorous. Specimens over 1″ or so are not out of reach for a beginner.

What is cf? Cf is the abbreviated latin confer  (which means ‘to evaluate’) In short, this means the specimen has most of defining characteristics of the species indicated and thus is a likely candidate. We are currently waiting to see if these specimens collected from Oaxaca, Mexico are truly one and the same as the Cardiopelma mascatum originally described in 1999.

Cardiopelma cf. mascatum have been found to occur in the mountains and borders south-east of Oaxaca City. While there is a seasonal wet period, most of the year the climate can be quite dry.

Currently they are quite rare in the hobby. We hope to have this amazing species available more often.

Origin: New World. Current hobby specimens of “Cardiopelma cf. mascatum” are native to Oaxaca, Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 2-2 1/2″

Growth speed: Medium

Longevity: Males 4-6 years, females 8-16 years

Temperament: I find they can be skittish and may flee and will sometimes flick hairs if disturbed. Bites are rare and not considered medically significant.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: Currently the only Cardiopelma there is still some uncertainty about the proper name of the specimens circulating in the hobby. It’s exciting to have something so new and unique they we’re just beginning to learn about.

Enclosure:  For most small spiderlings under about 3/4-1″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. Specimens over about 1″ or so can be housed in a  Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit and depending on the mature size of that particular specimen and how the enclosure is set-up it could possibly even be a permanent enclosure for this dwarf tarantula. Specimens over 2″ will have a lot of space in a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

SubstrateCocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, sharp rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

I find if provided with deep substrate this species will often build it’s own burrow. If preferred, Cork tubes half buried in substrate can provide a starter area for a juvenile or adult specimen.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired although it is not necessary. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 7-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7 days or so. We feed all our tarantulas B. lateralis roaches. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Good Husbandry: Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen.

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Care Sheets Chromatopelma Main

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (Green Bottle Blue / GBB) Care Sheet

When someone asks me for a recommendation on what to get…it’s this spider.

I mean… what’s not to love?

GBB can thrive in a wide range of conditions.

They are hardy and forgiving.

The species has one of the best feeding responses of any tarantula and are known to take down prey large for their size.

They grow rather quickly for a tarantula.

They have beautiful coloring and striking patterns that change as they molt and grow.

The little spiderlings have black and tan stripes on their legs and are topped with metallic gold. Their abdomen is adorned with what looks like a black and red tribal tattoo.

Many juvenile specimens will go though a short phase where their gold carapace turns flower-pedal pink.

The carapace, once gold and then pink will later become aquamarine. The Black and Tan legs will turn blue and the abdomen will become orange.

Smaller slings like to burrow while juvenile and larger specimens are some of the most talented (and excessive) webbers of my collection. They will put webbing everywhere they can reach it’s awesome!

Origin: New World. Native to the unique and isolated Paraguaná Peninsula in Northern Venezuela.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.75-6.25″

Growth speed: Fast

Longevity: Males 3-6 years, females 8-14 years

Temperament: Often considered a docile species, I find they can be skittish and may flee and will sometimes flick hairs if disturbed. Bites are rare and not considered medically significant.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  71 to 76°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: GBB is undoubtedly “our customers favorite tarantula”

Enclosure:  For most small spiderlings we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit however, GBB tend to not have any issue going straight into a  Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit provided it’s properly arranged for the little one. Specimens over 2″ or so can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.Be sure to give your growing GBB many places to hang it’s webbing.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, sharp rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

Cork tubes half buried in substrate can provide a starter area for larger GBB to adopt. In many cases a larger specimen would rather use what they find to web up their enclosure than create a burrow from deep substrate as they may (or may not) have done when they were young.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired although it is not necessary. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 7-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-7 days. We feed all our tarantulas B. lateralis roaches. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Good Husbandry: Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen.

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma seemanni (Costa Rican Stripe Knee / Zebra) Care Sheet

Aphonopelma seemanni is also known as the Costa Rican stripe knee or Costa Rican Zebra tarantula. This species is often sought by beginner keepers and is a fantastic choice for those new to the hobby, provided the specimen is over about 1 1/4″ DLS.

Pictured below is a sub-adult female showing off her white-striped knees and gorgeous structural blues. I just adore that white line across the border of the carapace/chelicerae to match the white stripes and knee bands. It gets me every time!

Like other Aphonopelmas is known for its longevity and hardiness. Often considered a docile species, I find they can sometimes be testy although bites are rare and not considered medically significant. The species is typically slower-moving which makes care, maintenance, rehousing and shipping much easier on the keeper.

I have seen a number of A. seemanni and find many of them exhibit some blue, especially fresh from a molt. Oftentimes a strong LED and proper angle is needed to appreciate the reflective color that may not be apparent upon first glance. Specimens who look like they have lost their contrast and color will often surprise after a molt.

Typically I start to see the onset of adult markings around 1 1/4-2″ although it varies per specimen. Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

Origin: New World. Costa Rica, Nicaragua & Honduras

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.75-5.75″

Growth speed: Slow to Medium

Longevity: Males 5-6+ years, females 20-35 years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Although they can sometimes be testy, bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: A few have asked me about the “brown from” and although is certainly possible, I’ve never come across one. I have certainly seen a lot of brown, tan or even blonde A. seemanni but they look that way because they have not molted in a long while. Many species who are normally vibrant can look horrifically drab and dull later in their cycle. This is just how tarantulas are.

I’d love to see a unique, freshly-molted, natural-brunette A. semanni but in my opinion this is simply misinformation spread by those who have seen an A. semanni in desperate need of a molt.

Agree? Disagree? Why? We would love to hear your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma moderatum (Rio Grande Gold) Care Sheet

This coveted species needs no introduction.

Known for it’s beauty, longevity, hardiness and docile nature this is about as good as it gets right here.

Their signature patterns and coloring come in around 2-2 1/2″ DLS and tend to get stronger with age. This young female is just beginning to display adult coloration:

Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

A true display spider the species is a prized among veteran hobbyists and beginners alike.

Origin: New World. Native to Mexico

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5″

Growth speed: Very slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 22-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: Like most Aphonopelmas, the males will lose their distinct markings once mature.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma iodius / Aphonopelma smithii (Desert Tarantula) Care Sheet

Aphonopelma smithii  became a synonym with Aphonopelma iodius in 2016. This species is often called the Bay Area Blonde, Desert Tarantula or Mojave Desert Tarantula as it is found in the deserts and borders of the Mojave Desert.

Like other Aphonopelmas is known for its longevity and hardiness. Often considered a docile species, I find they can sometimes be testy although bites are rare and not considered medically significant. The species is typically slower-moving which makes care, maintenance, rehousing and shipping much easier on the keeper.

Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

Origin: New World. Native to Mojave Desert in the Western USA.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5.5″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 20-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Although they can sometimes be testy, bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: Aphonopelma iodius is rumored to reside in the Chaparral east of the Bay Area as well as parts of Utah.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma hentzi (Texas Brown) Care Sheet

The species is known for its longevity and hardiness. Often considered a docile species, I find they can sometimes be testy although bites are rare and not considered medically significant. The species is typically slower-moving which makes care, maintenance, rehousing and shipping much easier on the keeper.

Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

Origin: New World. Native to: Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana & parts of Northern Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5.5″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 20-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Although they can sometimes be testy, bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: A. hentzi is the most commonly found and widely distributed species in the US.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma chalcodes (Arizona Blonde) Care Sheet

Light blonde accents contrast dark legs for striking look. Aphonopelma chalcodes (Arizona Blonde) is one of the most popular beginner tarantulas for good reason.

The species is known for its attractive coloring, longevity, and hardiness. Often considered a docile species I find they can sometimes be testy although bites are rare and not considered medically significant. The species is typically slower-moving which makes care, maintenance, rehousing and shipping much easier on the keeper.

Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

There are two, very slightly different variations of A. chalcodes commonly traded in the hobby. The differences are quite subtle and depending on the specimens size and stage in it’s molt cycle  it can sometimes be very difficult to distinguish the two.

Pictured below is the A. chalcodes var. New River:

Origin: New World. Native to Arizona and Northern Mexico

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5.5″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 20-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: The mild venom of A. chalcodes contains lectins, a rare carbohydrate-bonding protein which is currently being studied for it’s medical potential.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Categories
Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma bicoloratum (Mexican Blood Leg) Care Sheet

This beautiful and unique New World is known for its docile and hardy nature. Often confused with Brachypelma boehmei due to similar markings, this Aphonopelma is quite different indeed.

Quite uncommon in the hobby the species is known for it’s bright coloring, longevity, hardiness and docile nature. A. bicoloratum also has a reputation for being quite a slow-growing species but, good things come to those who wait. I found watching the species grow from a little brown speck to a vibrant orange marvel to be one of the most rewarding in the hobby.

This heavy bodied tarantula is typically slower-moving as well. Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing. A true display spider the species is a favorite among veteran hobbyists and beginners alike.

Origin: New World. Native to Mexico

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5″

Growth speed: Very slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 22-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: I often get questions asking for comparisons on the two and although A.bicoloratum is often compared to B. boehmei (due to similar coloration) the two are not as closely related as many might think. They’re not even in the same genus!

I feel A. bicoloratum tend to be heavier/stockier for their size although B. boehmei do get larger overall.  B. boehmei have distinct yellow bands on their legs which the A. bicoloratum lack. Adult B. boehmei tend to be dark red in color while the A. bicoloratum are vibrant orange.

The biggest difference I think for hobbyists is the personality of the two. Although both can make a great beginner tarantula the A. bicoloratum tend to be less much less likely to flick urticating hairs when disturbed for rehousing or shipping.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/