Author: Jamie

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Aphonopelma Care Sheets Main

Aphonopelma bicoloratum (Mexican Blood Leg) Care Sheet

This beautiful and unique New World is known for its docile and hardy nature. Often confused with Brachypelma boehmei due to similar markings, this Aphonopelma is quite different indeed.

Quite uncommon in the hobby the species is known for it’s bright coloring, longevity, hardiness and docile nature. A. bicoloratum also has a reputation for being quite a slow-growing species but, good things come to those who wait. I found watching the species grow from a little brown speck to a vibrant orange marvel to be one of the most rewarding in the hobby.

This heavy bodied tarantula is typically slower-moving as well. Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing. A true display spider the species is a favorite among veteran hobbyists and beginners alike.

Origin: New World. Native to Mexico

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-5″

Growth speed: Very slow

Longevity: Males 7+ years, females 22-40+ years

Temperament:  Known for it’s docile nature if frightened or disturbed it may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are very rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: I often get questions asking for comparisons on the two and although A.bicoloratum is often compared to B. boehmei (due to similar coloration) the two are not as closely related as many might think. They’re not even in the same genus!

I feel A. bicoloratum tend to be heavier/stockier for their size although B. boehmei do get larger overall.  B. boehmei have distinct yellow bands on their legs which the A. bicoloratum lack. Adult B. boehmei tend to be dark red in color while the A. bicoloratum are vibrant orange.

The biggest difference I think for hobbyists is the personality of the two. Although both can make a great beginner tarantula the A. bicoloratum tend to be less much less likely to flick urticating hairs when disturbed for rehousing or shipping.

Enclosure:  For spiderlings under about 1/3-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial . Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend rehousing on semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The substrate and should dry out as needed. The  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing. Older/larger specimens are typically kept with hides as they’re more likely to be observed.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish if desired. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 10-18 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 7-14 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under 1/3” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower so it may be advised to use pre-killed four until large enough to handle live prey. We feed our slings freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches.

Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. The substrate does not need to be changed unless it is moldy, overly filthy or otherwise unfit for the tarantula. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after a few minutes to hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Categories
Communal Harpactira Main

Harpactira pulchripes (Golden Blue Leg Baboon) Communal Part 1

Although not known in the hobby as “communal” I have been experimenting with this group since mid-November 2019.

As this group seemed to exhibit communal behavior I kept them together out of curiosity. I could always separate them if there was an issue.

So a few weeks went by. I didn’t have to separate them.

…then a few months….

….a year…

Here we are 20 months later they are still living together peacefully (as far as I can tell…)

I even can’t say I did anything special. I simply left them in the enclosure with their mother and made sure everyone had food and water.

Stay tuned for an H. pulchripes communal feeding video, coming soon!

 

 

Categories
Care Sheets Harpactira

Harpactira pulchripes (Golden Blue Leg Baboon) Care Sheet

Harpactira pulchripes is also known as the Golden Blue Leg Baboon, Blue and Gold Baboon, 24K Gold Baboon etc. This stunning South African native is well-known and sought in the hobby for its shimming gold and metallic blue coloring. The color of the above photo has not been altered in any way. An LED and flash really made the color of this juvenile female to POP! I just can’t help but get sooo excited for this species!

Not only are they stunningly gorgeous, I think they are fairly easy to keep. They’re hardy, good eaters, excellent burrowers & tube web creators. It’s no wonder this one’s a hobby favorite!

Origin: Old World. Native South Africa

Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced (Due to speed and bite potency) although we find they are more “easy going” than most OW species which makes them a common first OW species for the intermediate keeper.

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: Males average 3.5-4.5″ while Females average 5-6″

Growth speed: Medium

Longevity: Males 4+ years, females 10-15 or more years

Temperament:  Skittish and often defensive. If agitated they are typically more likely to flee but they can be defensive and bite if they feel threatened.

Bite potency:  Strong

Urticating hairs: No

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Medium

Interesting Fact: Although not known in the hobby as communal we have been keeping a large group together since November 2019.

You can read more about our H. pulchripes communal here:

Harpactira pulchripes (Golden Blue Leg Baboon) Communal Part 1

 

Enclosure: The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found HERE

Where can I get a Golden Blue Leg Baboon? To see if Jamies has any H. pulchripes for sale check out the current stock-list HERE

Categories
Main

Hapalopus sp. Colombia (Pumpkin Patch) & triseriatus comparison photos

A customer recently asked me the difference. What a great excuse for a photo post dedicated to the little South American spiders with A LOT of personality!

Can you spot the differences? Hint: Look at the shape of the stripe on the carapace as well as the patterns on the abdomen.

Hapalopus sp. Colombia (Pumpkin Patch Large)

Hapalopus sp. Colombia (Pumpkin Patch Small aka Klein)

Hapalopus triseriatus (Lemon Patch Tarantula)

 

 

Categories
Main

Want to start a tarantula communal? Here are some basic communal tips

Want to start a tarantula communal?

Here are some basic communal tips:

-Not all tarantulas species can live communally. In fact most can not (you’ll just end up with one, big fat tarantula) I am currently keeping communal enclosures of M. balfouri, N. incei, P. miranda, P. metallica, Poecilotheria Highland & Poecilotheria Lowland.

-Even so, some communal species tolerate each other better than others. I personally wouldn’t recommend trying an Avicularia species communal.  N./H. incei I have had more losses overall than my Poecilotheria and M. balfouri communals, and many customers repot similar experiences. M. balfouri tend to do quite well together in fact, I would go as far to say I think they are happier when kept as a proper communal. I rarely bother separating groups of M. balfouri as I can reliably keep them together with little to no losses. Most Poecilotheria are do well together with P. ornata being an exception.

-A bigger enclosure isn’t necessarily better when doing a communal. You want the tarantulas to share a common borrow/tube web structure rather than try to steak out their own, personal territory.  

-Make sure they are fed and misted often but not so much there are feeders constantly running around the enclosure (This will only make them stressed!) We feed our Poecilotheria sp. Lowland communal about once every five days only as much as the slings can catch in a few minutes.   Not all tarantulas in the commune will want to eat every meal.

-I typically recommend starting a communal with 4-5 specimens although due to popular request (and my curiosity) I have been doing experiments with smaller groups and pairs. I have even had success rearing two M. balfouri together, as well as two P. miranda together both from 2i to about 3″ DLS. Keep in mind I am still experimenting with smaller communal set-ups and stand by my 4-5 specimen recommendation for those new to keeping tarantulas communally.

-If possible start your communal with tarantulas already familiar with each other/living in commune. Keep in mind starting with specimens who have been separated for some time can and often will result in one, very fat spiderling. If you’re ordering tarantulas from us and plan on doing a communal with the group please ask our opinion first. We may or may not recommend against it. We’d rather loose your business then have slings lost as a result of poor planning! If we are offering a “communal special” this means the specimens available for purchase are currently housed together.

Poecilotheria sp. “Lowland” Communal

Here is an example of one of my larger communal setups. I saved a lucky group of 13 from the original communal enclosure of about 36 to set up a communal for my personal collection.

I rehoused that bakers dozen of our Poecilotheria sp. “Lowland” spiderlings into a Terrestrial Juvenile enclosure kit. Here they are enjoying their first meal in their new home! 

 


It is fun to watch the Poecilotheria sp. Lowland take prey. They will touch the prey before attacking it to make they’re not accidentally going after a sibling.


Although in the photos they were just rehoused into a new enclosure these Poecilotheria have been living together peacefully since 6-6-18, that’s over two years! I will need to rehouse them during the holiday closure as they are 2″ or over, too large for their Terrestrial Juvenile Kit! Stay tuned for an updated re-count and re-house article!

M. balfouri Communal

See more Information on this M. balfouri communal here:

Monocentropus balfouri – Assembling a Communal Enclosure –  Part I

Monocentropus balfouri – Communal Maintenance  – Part II

 

Categories
Care Sheets Grammostola Main

Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco golden knee) Care Sheet

Formerly known as Grammostola aureostriata, Grammostola pulchripes or the Chaco golden knee tarantula is a popular beginner species. Dark in appearance with pink “hairs” and yellow striping on their knees this remarkably stunning tarantula can grow quite large for a Grammostola, I have had specimens nearly 8 inches in legspan!

Known for it’s coloring, longevity, hardiness and docile yet skittish nature the Chaco Golden Knee is also a slower-growing species. This heavy bodied tarantula is typically slower-moving as well. Smaller slings like to burrow while larger specimens are often content to adopt a hide, and are more likely to be out in the open for viewing.

Origin: New World. G. pulchripes is native to Paraguay and Argentina

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 5-8″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Medium

Fun Fact: I have only been bit by a tarantula once, it was by a small 1-1.25″ G. pulchripes who mistook my finger for food. It was  really my fault and understandable on the slings part. Keep in mind we had a pretty good feeding routine going for the past three years or so. The enclosure would be moved around, opened and then food would drop from the sky. This time was different as I intended to ship the spider. It’s enclosure was moved and opened just as it had been for weekly feedings…but and instead of food came my finger. It was an honest mistake. I remember looking at its fangs sunk into my index finger wondering how to go about this without hurting the little guy. A second later the Chaco realized instead of a juicy roach it was fang deep in some giant’s finger. The little bugger immediately let go and ran for it’s life. I was able to safely intercept the tiny and terrified troublemaker. I still have naughty little “Feisty” as a beloved pet!

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure or 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial As adults can often grow to be over 6.5″ we recommend the 10 x 10 x 20″ Adult Tarantula Cage as a permeant enclosure for specimens over 4-4.5″ or so. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Categories
Care Sheets Grammostola Main

Grammostola rosea (Red Rose Hair) Care Sheet

Grammostola rosea is also known as the Chilean Rose Hair or Red Rose Hair. Sometimes older hobby material might refer to them as “Red Color Form / RCF Rose-hair”, “G. rosea Red” or “G. rosea RCF”

Known for it’s metallic brick red coloring, longevity, hardiness, sometimes docile nature and strange eating habits the Rose Hair is also remarkably slow-growing.

A decade ago an adult female of this hardy and beautiful species could be easily obtained for a fraction of what captive-bred slings sell for now. One of the hobby original tarantulas, they rose to such unprecedented popularity as a result of adult and sub-adult wild-caught specimens being imported from Chile to the USA in extremely large numbers. To help protect native flora, fauna and their habitats Chile no longer allows the export of wild-caught tarantulas for the pet trade.

The last few years all G. rosea sold by Jamie’s Tarantulas have been proudly captive-bred. We have this species requested often and do our best to have captive-bred spiderlings available but this is not always the case. We are interested in mature males for our breeding program so if anyone ever has any available please let us know!

Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult coloring, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Origin: New World. G. rosea is native to Chile

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-6″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Medium

Interesting Fact: G. rosea can potentially live a year or more without food.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Categories
Care Sheets Grammostola Main

Grammostola porteri (Pink Rose Hair) Care Sheet

Grammostola porteri is also known as the Chilean Rose Hair or Pink Rose Hair. Sometimes older hobby material might refer to them as “Typical Color Form / TCF Rose-hair”, “G. rosea pink” or “G. rosea TCF”

Known for it’s metallic pink coloring, longevity, hardiness, sometimes docile nature and strange eating habits the Rose Hair is also remarkably slow-growing.

A decade ago an adult female of this hardy and beautiful species could be easily obtained for a fraction of what captive-bred slings sell for now. One of the hobby original tarantulas, they rose to such unprecedented popularity as a result of adult and sub-adult wild-caught specimens being imported from Chile to the USA in extremely large numbers. To help protect native flora, fauna and their habitats Chile no longer allows the export of wild-caught tarantulas for the pet trade.

The last few years all G. porteri sold by Jamie’s Tarantulas have been proudly captive-bred. We have this species requested often and do our best to have captive-bred spiderlings available but this is not always the case. We are interested in mature males for our breeding program so if anyone ever has any available please let us know!

Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/4″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Origin: New World. G. porteri is native to Chile

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-6″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Medium

Interesting Fact: G. porteri can potentially live a year or more without food.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Categories
Grammostola Main

Grammostola pulchra vs. G. quirogai

Such instances of species confusion is more commonplace in the hobby than I would like to admit, but only with an awareness of existing problems can we better find and execute potential solutions.

Why the confusion?

When tarantulas are collected from the wild for the pet trade they are often poorly identified, improperly labeled and almost never come with specific locale information. These particular species can only be confirmed by an extremely subtle difference in the mature male or with a DNA test and these proper identification steps were not observed before specimens entered the pet trade.

So which is it?

Is it a Brazilian Black, Uruguay Black Beauty or Argentinian Black? All of these remarkably similar relatives have likely made their way into the hobby at one time or another although, nearly everything in the US hobby currently sold by dealers & pet stores come from similar bloodlines, which trace their origins to Uruguay. Whether you’re looking at obtaining a “Grammostola pulchra / Brazilian Black” or “Grammostola quirogai / Uruguay Black Beauty” it’s most likely the same spider.

Okay. So which spider is that?

There are numerous unofficial reports of three remarkably similar black species with potentially overlapping range, as well as some or all possibly residing also in Argentina. Published scientific records describe Grammostola pulchra as residing in Brazil only and Grammostola quirogai in Uruguay only. While the official data is still limited, the information available would have us assume the majority of the Grammostola pulchra / Brazilian Black who’ve been commonly traded, talked about and loved in recent years is more likely a misidentified Grammostola quirogai / Uruguay Black Beauty.

I think I can see the visual differences from photos online?

I have seen good number of specimens from different sources as well as numerous photos and would urge hobbyists to take what they see and read on the internet with a grain of salt. Depending on the settings of the camera, lighting, molt cycle of the tarantula and numerous other factors a single specimen can look surprisingly different. For example, a lighting or a flash can reflect and make it looks like a specimen has odd-colored hairs scattered throughout. Conditions can certainly play tricks on the camera lens! Don’t fall into the temptation of confirming minute to seemingly obvious differences by merely looking at a picture. Take it from someone who has literally taken tens of thousands of spider pictures this is not a reliable way to distinguish species!

Okay, then how do I tell them apart?

That is a very good question, and I wish there was a quick, easy and reliable way to tell the difference between any given Grammostola pulchra and quirogai…

…But the only way to truly distinguish the two species is to observe the spine arrangement of the mature males tibial hooks or though a DNA sequence.

How do I get a DNA test to confirm the species of my pet tarantula?

We have collected and sent off various exuviae (molts) to graduate students in hopes sequence the DNA, this would certainly help clarify things. Sadly, after numerous attempts it was discovered there is not enough genetic material in the exuviae for the machines to read. A successful DNA sequence under these circumstances would have been much more likely with a larger, recently deceased specimen.

We’d love to hear from anyone with success DNA sequencing exuviae as this would greatly assist the hobby in confirming species and to  identify and protect “pure” bloodlines.

Is it possible the “Hobby G. pulchra” is a “mutt”?

There are limited official reports of scientists attempting to pair Grammostola pulchra with Grammostola quirogai that claim none of the mismatched species were interested in each other. I hope to see more official publications on this topic soon.

When will we get updated information on this topic?

Tarantulas are a less-studied branch of etymology but thankfully there is growing interest in these amazing arthropods. Species are being described, redescribed & studied more frequently. We hope to see more official information on this and other topics soon and will update this page as we are able.

Check out what happened recently with the Mexican Red Knee. The hobby’s most iconic tarantula Brachypelma smithi is now Brachypelma hamorii.

Categories
Care Sheets Grammostola Main

Grammostola pulchra / quirogai (Brazilian black) Care Sheet

Grammostola pulchra is also known as the Brazilian black.

Known for it’s solid, velvet black coloration, longevity, hardiness and docile nature G. pulchra is one of the most popular beginner tarantulas for good reason!

For more information on Grammostola pulchra vs. quirogai CLICK HERE or scroll past the husbandry notes of this care sheet

Origin: New World. G. pulchra is native to Brazil (Uruguay,* Argentina,* see below)

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 5.5-7.5″+

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs. Bites from this species are rare.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Medium

Interesting Fact: Currently Grammostola pulchra is our most requested tarantula! Looks, personality, hardiness, ease of care, longevity… this one has got it all! Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/4″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. Unless you’re housing a large female a 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial will suffice for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. As adults can sometimes grow to be over 6.5″ we recommend the 10 x 10 x 20″ Adult Tarantula Cage as a permeant enclosure for specimens over 4-4.5″ or so. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

 

Grammostola pulchra vs. G. quirogai

Such instances of species confusion is more commonplace in the hobby than I would like to admit, but only with an awareness of existing problems can we better find and execute potential solutions.

Why the confusion?

When tarantulas are collected from the wild for the pet trade they are often poorly identified, improperly labeled and almost never come with specific locale information. These particular species can only be confirmed by an extremely subtle difference in the mature male or with a DNA test and these proper identification steps were not observed before specimens entered the pet trade.

So which is it?

Is it a Brazilian Black, Uruguay Black Beauty or Argentinian Black? All of these remarkably similar relatives have likely made their way into the hobby at one time or another although, nearly everything in the US hobby currently sold by dealers & pet stores come from similar bloodlines, which trace their origins to Uruguay. Whether you’re looking at obtaining a “Grammostola pulchra / Brazilian Black” or “Grammostola quirogai / Uruguay Black Beauty” it’s most likely the same spider.

Okay. So which spider is that?

There are numerous unofficial reports of three remarkably similar black species with potentially overlapping range, as well as some or all possibly residing also in Argentina. Published scientific records describe Grammostola pulchra as residing in Brazil only and Grammostola quirogai in Uruguay only. While the official data is still limited, the information available would have us assume the majority of the Grammostola pulchra / Brazilian Black who’ve been commonly traded, talked about and loved in recent years is more likely a misidentified Grammostola quirogai / Uruguay Black Beauty.

I think I can see the visual differences from photos online?

I have seen good number of specimens from different sources as well as numerous photos and would urge hobbyists to take what they see and read on the internet with a grain of salt. Depending on the settings of the camera, lighting, molt cycle of the tarantula and numerous other factors a single specimen can look surprisingly different. For example, a lighting or a flash can reflect and make it looks like a specimen has odd-colored hairs scattered throughout. Conditions can certainly play tricks on the camera lens! Don’t fall into the temptation of confirming minute to seemingly obvious differences by merely looking at a picture. Take it from someone who has literally taken tens of thousands of spider pictures this is not a reliable way to distinguish species!

Okay, then how do I tell them apart?

That is a very good question, and I wish there was a quick, easy and reliable way to tell the difference between any given Grammostola pulchra and quirogai…

…But the only way to truly distinguish the two species is to observe the spine arrangement of the mature males tibial hooks or though a DNA sequence.

How do I get a DNA test to confirm the species of my pet tarantula?

We have collected and sent off various exuviae (molts) to graduate students in hopes sequence the DNA, this would certainly help clarify things. Sadly, after numerous attempts it was discovered there is not enough genetic material in the exuviae for the machines to read. A successful DNA sequence under these circumstances would have been much more likely with a larger, recently deceased specimen.

We’d love to hear from anyone with success DNA sequencing exuviae as this would greatly assist the hobby in confirming species and to  identify and protect “pure” bloodlines.

Is it possible the “Hobby G. pulchra” is a “mutt”?

There are limited official reports of scientists attempting to pair Grammostola pulchra with Grammostola quirogai that claim none of the mismatched species were interested in each other. I hope to see more official publications on this topic soon.

When will we get updated information on this topic?

Tarantulas are a less-studied branch of etymology but thankfully there is growing interest in these amazing arthropods. Species are being described, redescribed & studied more frequently. We hope to see more official information on this and other topics soon and will update this page as we are able.

Check out what happened recently with the Mexican Red Knee. The hobby’s most iconic tarantula Brachypelma smithi is now Brachypelma hamorii.