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FAQ – Jamie’s Most Frequently Asked Questions

Why should I order from Jamie’s Tarantulas? 
Want you to be happy with your order and are work very hard to do so! I, Jamie personally hand select & pack every single tarantula we ship.

We strive for superior quality and service and combined have more than three decades experience keeping over two hundred different tarantula species! We are not a pet or reptile shop selling tarantulas, Tarantulas are our specialty!

To give our tarantulas the best possible diet we feed our roaches a blend of personally & locally grown, unsprayed (better than organic) produce, grains, bee pollen and other select ingredients… all to raise the healthiest and happiest tarantulas possible.

Jamie’s Cages were developed and originally built for our own use keeping and breeding tarantulas. We refined the design until satisfied and still use our own cages for the majority of our personal collection. To this day all Jamie’s Tarantulas brand enclosures are made right here in the USA.

We stand by our live arrival guarantee 100%, provided we are contacted with photo evidence in the timeframe set forth in the Sipping and LAG terms.

What are your shipping and LAG terms?
Our most up-to-date shipping and live arrival guarantee information and terms can be found HERE 

What does shipping cost?
We ship flat rate, no matter what you buy. Our flat rate shipping options and guarantee for each is detailed on our: Shipping & Live Arrival Guarantee/TOS Page

The only two current exceptions to the flat rate shipping rule are the adult cages as they ship on their own, separate of your “flat rate shipping” order. As adult cages ship separate of the rest of  your order their “free shipping” cannot be applied to other items.

Where do you ship to?
We ship tarantulas to the contential US and Alaska, weather permitting. We cannot ship tarantulas or feeders to Hawaii, US islands/outlying territories however, we can ship you supplies & cages provided your mailing address is within the USA/islands/outlying territories.

We cannot ship B. lateralis and B. dubia to Florida.

We are sorry but we can not ship internationally at this time.

What’s your shipping schedule?
Please note we ship according to our schedule, choosing expedited methods will only reduce the time your package spends in transit. Our regular shipping schedule is as follows. Orders placed:

Wednesday through Friday will ship Monday
Saturday and Sunday will ship Tuesday
Monday and Tuesday will ship Wednesday

Our current schedule including updates due to holidays and/or closures can be found HERE

Where are you located? Where do you ship from? 
Our warehouse & tarantula facility is located in Aguanga, Southern California.

What about store pickup? Do you offer tours?
Tours and store pick-up are not available at this time.

Do you offer wholesale?

Brick and motor pet stores with a current business license (as a pet store) please email us for the current wholesale list.

What if it’s cold or hot?
Heat packs, cool packs, evaporative cooling, insulated boxes, and any other packing supplies needed to get you your order safely are included for no additional charge!

For the consideration of the live animals in your order, if weather that might delay shipment (snowstorm etc.) is forecasted please let us know in the order notes. We are happy to hold your order until weather improves!

We will check your temperature forecast the day your order is scheduled to ship. If we think weather is too hot and/or cold to get to you safely even with the special packing we will contact you.

We ship assuming someone will be available to immediately take the shipment indoors.

What is your live arrival guarantee?

Standard shipment for one hour after arrival. This means we need to be contacted within one hour of delivery with clear, photo evidence of the DOA(s), to be covered.

Signature shipment is guaranteed for 48 hours provided it was signed for on the first attempt. This means we need to be contacted, with photo evidence, within 48 hours of arrival, and the package needs to be signed for on the first attempt for the DOA to be covered. If no one is immediately available to sign for the package the carrier may (at their own discretion) sign for the package and leave it in a secure location. In this instance the live arrival guarantee is the same as standard shipping, we need to be contacted within one hour of the carrier leaving the package for LAG.

Hold for pickup: Is live arrival guaranteed provided we’re contacted the same day the package arrived at the pickup facility.

COVID19 UPDATE: THE MOST UP-TO-DATE SHIPPING AND LIVE ARRIVAL GUARANTEE INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND HERE

What if my tarantula or feeders arrive dead?

We stand by our guarantee 100%, provided the Live arrival guarantee (LAG) terms are followed and we are contacted in the timeframe stated above.

Why one hour for non-signature shipments

If we ship your order the live invertebrates should be fine provided someone is able to take it indoors right away. We would highly advise against leaving your package out in the elements as we have done countless tests with insulated packing to insure we are shipping the best way possible. We’ve found insulated boxes shipped with heat packs, cool packs or evaporative cooling methods tend to do fine while in transit when they’re buffered from the elements however, when left in the elements such as in on a porch or driveway, in a recepticle etc. after nearly an hour the little box with it’s travel-size heater or cooler can’t keep out all of Mother Nature’s wrath. Such neglect can and will result in fatalities. We ship assuming someone will be available to immediately take the shipment indoors as customers agree to the live arrival guarantee (LAG)  terms upon checkout.

We want your tarantula to arrive safe, and in the rare case it doesn’t we want you to be covered under our live arrival guarantee (LAG) so please be absolutely sure your understand and agree to our live arrival guarantee policy before placing an order. Please be there for your live animal(s) safety and if you have any questions or concerns don’t hesitate to contact us before ordering.

What if the package experiences a carrier delay?
Once we leave the package with the shipper it is literally out of our hands. We prepare each shipment for extra time in transit as every so often we have a delay and they have certainly been more common as a result of COVID-19 and other current events. No matter how long it takes to deliver we offer the same live arrival guarantee, as long as the LAG terms are followed.

When on a truck there is a buffer to the elements. The only thing we can’t prepare for is the package sitting on a hot or cold doorstep so if possible have someone home to receive the box and always plan for a possible delay. Despite a delay the shipment is usually fine provided it’s properly received.

Whether it’s on time or delayed please be sure to contact us within the timeframe specified in the LAG terms to receive your free replacement, credit or refund in the very rare case of a DOA.

How do I track my package?
Tracking will be emailed to your the evening your order ships.

When you place an order please provide a valid email address and double check it is correct as this is the address we will use to email your tracking number.

Why does my tracking number say “invalid”, “not found” or “no such number”? 
Tracking will display one of these, or a similar message until it’s first scanned in. The packages typically get scanned between 2-10pm PST the afternoon/night the order ships.

How do I sign up for text and/or email alerts?
Once the tracking link is active (scanned in) you can sign up for tracking alerts via your tracking number/page.

Can you sign me up for text and/or email alerts? Can I receive a call or text when my order is out for delivery?

The only way to receive a text or email when your package is out for delivery is to sign up for email and/or text alerts via your active tracking link. Due to sensitive user agreements we cannot sign customers up for alerts on their behalf at this time nor can we personally sign up for alerts of every package we send and call/text each customer when the package is out for delivery (especially considering one can very easily sign up for this automated service via their tracking link)

Also, be aware the carriers delivering the package cannot be relied upon to call or text when the package is out for delivery (nor can they or we be held responsible for resulting complications if they don’t!)

We highly recommend signing up for the email/text alerts! It’s super easy to do, just follow the instructions in your active tracking link and don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions!

Remember, if tracking is not yet active you’ll have to wait for it to become active before you’re able to sign up for alerts.

Can I provide an alternate address in case no one is home?

Our carriers do not offer this service at this time.

What if I have a guard dog or my home/complex is gated? What if I live in a complicated apartment complex? 

Please make sure you can receive delivery as scheduled to the address provided otherwise, we recommend requesting “hold for pickup” in the order notes upon checkout.

What if the package is stolen?

Once the package is delivered to the the address provided upon checkout it becomes the responsibility of the recipient. Carriers are equipped with GPS tracking so when a package is marked delivered the exact location is recorded. This is how we can distinguish and locate misdelivered from stolen packages.

What is the gender? Can I choose the gender?
If the gender is known it will be stated in the title. If there is no gender stated in the title the specimen is sold as “unsexed” as we do not know the specimens gender at this time.

We are unable to determine or guess as to the gender of unsexed specimens. Thank you for not asking us to “pick a probable female” etc.

How is gender determined? Why can’t you determine the gender of small tarantulas?
Visit THIS PAGE see how gender is determined, and understand why we can’t determine the gender of small tarantulas at this time.

How do you measure?

Visit THIS PAGE to see how we measure our tarantulas.

How do I read a tarantulas ad?

Tarantula ads read in the following order: scientific name, common name (if applicable), size (measured in inches diagonal leg span), gender (if known, if unsexed no gender will be stated), and number (If applicable) For example: Chilobrachys fimbriatus (Indian Violet) 3-3 1/2″ FEMALE #E-5

What does the number at the end of the tarantulas ad mean?

I hand pick every tarantula on my website. I won’t post it for sale unless it’s the correct condition for shipping, healthy, free of obvious blemishes and has recently taken prey with vigor. The number is used to help me identify a specific tarantula, or group of tarantulas by shelf, bin or individual enclosure. If you’re contacting us regarding a specific tarantula please include it’s reference number if it has one. This way I know which specific tarantula to refer to.

Is a tarantula a good pet for me?
Tarantulas are one of the lowest-maintenance pets available, but this doesn’t mean they can’t be neglected. Tarantulas have specific needs and although these needs are very simple to meet, they are often not what pet owners are used to. Please do your research and don’t assume! Each species and even each specimen will have it’s own preferences regarding husbandry. Make sure to check on your tarantulas at the very least every few days and be ready to meet their needs if necessary. Watch their behavior and adjust care accordingly. This could be as simple as a light mist if the enclosure has dried a bit, keeping it away from a sunny window, leaving the tarantula alone and withholding food if it’s locked in it’s home, giving it some quiet time to itself etc. Keep in mind over-care (such as flooding the enclosure with feeders if it’s not hungry) can be just as dangerous as neglect (such forgetting to mist the enclosure for an extended period of time)

Provided it’s basic needs are met a tarantula can be a very rewarding low-macitence pet.

What about the temperature in my house?

Any tarantulas listed in the beginners section will be comfortable at “room temperature” This means if you’re comfortable in a T-shirt the tarantula should be alright. For Most Grammostola, Brachypelma, even GBB this means temperatures of 70 and up with occasional, seasonal and/or nightly drops into the 60’s are typically not a concern. In cooler weather tarantulas tend to slow their metabolism and won’t be as active or hungry as they are in the warmer months. Be aware some (more advanced) species such as A. purpurea will typically require higher temperatures to be content.

Water?

Please note tap and/or well water can contain chemicals that might be harmless to humans but can cause trouble for the little tarantula. I have seen DKS result in using tap and well water and strongly recommend against it. We use RO water for all our tarantulas.

Humidity?

Many new keepers try to maintain humidity as a specific number. I would not advise doing this. Use your temperature and humidity gauge to measure the area near the enclosure(s) and help provide our tarantulas better care.  When it’s warm and dry (low humidity) the enclosure will dry out more quickly, and will require more frequent misting and depending in the situation maybe even a heavier mist. If it’s cooler and humid we know we should probably have a light hand misting, the enclosure won’t dry out as quickly.

Misting?  

The substrate should be subtly moist (somewhat dependent on the species) and the trantula should have “dew” to drink off the sides on the enclosure a few times a week. There is a bit of a learning curve when it comes to misting. Gardners and those with a green thumb tend to get the hang of it pretty quickly as the concept of “not too wet or dry, a few times a week” is already habit.

We recommend new keepers mist one corner of the enclosure. This way the tarantula can choose between moist and dry substrate and the new keeper can adjust based on the tarantulas preferences.

What about a Water Bowl?

Tarantulas under about 2-3″ don’t need nor do we recommend using a water bowl. Once the tarantula is large enough it can be given a shallow, wide dish in order to drink from.

What enclosure and/or feeders should I get for my tarantula?

We should have enclosure and feeder recommendations in the description of every tarantula for sale. Click on the name to visit the tarantulas individual page. If you don’t see the enclosure or feeders recommendations its possible I overlooked that ad, please let us know they’re missing I will amend the website with this information asap!

Can I keep the tarantula in the container it was shipped in?

The vials we ship in are great for shipping, not for housing.

What about cleaning the enclosure?

We highly recommend a pair of tweezers to aid and weekly maintenance and feeding. Remove any uneaten food or organic matter that might mold or invite pests into the Tarantulas enclosure. There is NO need to change the substrate unless it becomes unsanitary. This typically only happens due to mold, as a result of too much moisture allowed in he enclosure for too long.

Can I get more information on Feeding?
Visit THIS PAGE for more information on feeding tarantulas.

We detail the feeder types, sizes, and conclude with a troubleshooting guide.

Handeling?

I consider Tarantulas observational pets although many people (including my own mother) think otherwise. When I first got into the hobby I did purchase my first tarantula thinking I would handle, but quickly realized the stress it caused the C. versicolor. Handling not only stressed the little guy out, it often resulted in damage to it’s home and put it at unnecessary risk of injury or even death.

Also, at first I didn’t notice the urticating hairs, however I quickly developed a reaction to them. Being itchy for a day or two after handling made it even less appealing.

Tarantulas are not domestic animals and will often act unpredictably. I do not handle my specimens except when absolutely necessary in the case of emergency typically as a result of packing, rehousing, breeding etc. We do not recommend handling for the safety of you and your tarantula however, many owners still purchase with handling in mind.

If you wish to go against our recommendation and handle your specimen please do so at your own discretion. We advise testing the specimen with a soft paintbrush to determine if it’s in a “bad mood” before contact is made. Please do everything possible to reduce the risk of injury from a fall. Grammostola and Brachypelma species are typically the most popular “docile beginner picks”. Beginners should chose only amongst the New World tarantulas. Old World species should never be considered for beginners or handled for any reason.

Special considerations:

Keep your tarantulas enclosure away from a sunny window. Even just a few minutes in the sun can cause a greenhouse effect in the enclosure, causing the temperatures to soar to dangerous and sometimes deadly heights. Tarantulas don’t like vibrations and will appreciate being away from speakers or other things that might cause semi-content or constant vibration or movement. Be sure if you have dogs or cats you only use high-quality, natural essential oils to control fleas and ticks. Products such as advantage, flea collars, flea spray, etc. can be dangerous or deadly. Tarantulas are very sensitive to pesticides and can have issues from crop dusting, a neighbor tenting for termites etc.

Can I keep them together?
The short answer is NO, you will end up with one big fat tarnautla but… there are a few exceptions, with a few species, under a few select circumstances. One should not consider a communal (enclosure with multiple tarantulas) until they are intermediate to advanced keepers. If you’d like to learn more about communal tarantula set-ups we have check out the communal category for lots of information and photos on the subject.

I think I am ready for a tarantula, what do you recommend for me? I’m a beginner?
All my personal recommendations for beginners can be found in the beginners section. This lists all the beginner tarantulas we currently have available for purchase.

Currently the A. geniculata, G. pulchra, Brachypelma & Tliltocatl species are our current most popular beginner picks due to their temperament, ease of care, tolerance of a wide range of temperature, humidity, enclosure and soil types, vigor, appetite, interesting habits, longevity and how they change colors/pattens as they grow.

What are the most common beginner mistakes?

HERE is a list of our top 10 beginner mistakes, and how to avoid them.

I see my desired tarantula listed in your store. Do you have it in stock? We take great pride in the quality and accuracy of our inventory. We only list specimens on our website if they are currently in stock, healthy, vigorous and ready to ship and have an in-stock guarantee as our policy. Discrepancies only happen only a few times a year. On the very rare instance we don’t have the tarantula you purchased you get $5 store credit.

I don’t see it in your store. Do you have my desired tarantula(s)?
I am sorry, the only tarantulas we have available for purchase are listed in the store. I am apologize but we don’t have anything hiding in the back room, only available to those who ask nor can we predict when we’re going to have something available. Absolutely everything currently available for purchase is posted in the store.

I saw a tarantula in your store recently that’s no longer there. Do you have it in stock?

I am sorry, if the tarantula was there and is now gone this means we are sold out of this particular tarantula. We cannot predict when it will be back in stock.

How often do you get new tarantulas in stock?

I post new tarantulas one to three times weekly.

What are you going to get in stock in the near future?

This is one of our most asked questions and there is honestly no easy easy to tell customers that I have no idea. I simply cannot predict who is going to molt and when, if they will be big enough to determine gender, if I will be able to retrieve an intact molt and if so what gender they will be, if they will be blemish free and pass their pre-sale inspection. Even if we have an eggsac with momma spider we don’t know if it’s going to hatch and will not announce anything publicly or via email until we know for sure.

I promise as soon as I find something new that is healthy, vigorous, free of blemishes, correct shipping condition etc. I will immediately post it on the website!

How do I get notified of new inventory?

We currently announce on *facebook when we have over a dozen new additions within 24 hours.

I post 1-4 times weekly and do not announce if only a few new additions are available.

Our inventory is constantly changing we encourage you to check back often!

*We will soon be moving away from the facebook platform and begin announcing 12+ new additions at a time via the newsletter, to be sent no more than once weekly. We will sometimes include coupons and special offers for subscribers . 

How do I sign up for the newsletter?
By becoming a member of the website or when you check out you can opt into the newsletter.

Do you offer freebies, coupons and/or discounts?
We occasionally send out special offers such as coupons, freebies & discounts to our newsletter subscribers. We don’t sell or give out your information and currently send a newsletter only a few times a year.

Is that the photo of the actual tarantula?
Unless stated the photo is a stock photo representing the species.

Can you get a photo of the actual tarantula?
Due to the unpredictable nature of tarantulas, the risk of injury (to the tarantula), the difficulty of getting them to pose and hold still long enough in good lighting for a clear photograph, the inevitable damage/destruction to the specimens home in order to extract it for the photos,  the resulting stress to the tarantula (and myself… I often end up frustratingly itchy after a shoot…) We apologize but we are unable to accommodate individual photo requests at this time.

Do you hold tarantulas?

We are unable to hold with no or partial payment. We are happy to hold orders, prepaid un full, up to two weeks.

What payment methods do you accept?

Visa, Discover and  Mastercard

Categories
Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma auratum (Mexican Flame Knee) Care Sheet

Brachypelma auratum is also known as the Mexican Flame Knee. This spectacular tarantula is often sought by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for it’s remarkable black and red contrast as well as it’s more docile nature this scrub-land tarantula is extremely hardy. Females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Origin: New World. This scrubland species is native to regions of Guerrero and Michoacan, Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-6″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact:  In my opinion B. auratum has the most remarkable contrast of color of all the Brachypelma. It’s velvet black with bright red “flames” on it’s knees, simply stunning! Due to it’s similarities to B. smithi it was not considered its own species until 1992.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

 

Categories
Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma baumgarteni (Mexican Orange Beauty) Care Sheet

Brachypelma baumgarteni is also known as the Mexican Orange Beauty.

This spectacular tarantula is often sought by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for being colorful and docile this scrub-land/desert tarantula is extremely hardy. Females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Origin: New World. This scrubland species is native to the Pacific coast of Michoacan, Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.5-6.25″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact:  Not to be confused with the similar looking B. boehmei, there are many physical traits to help distinguish them. The most obvious is B. boehmei has a solid red to orange-red carapace while B. baumgarteni instead has a black circle in the center of it’s carapace sounded by an orange halo.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks and often have slightly more striking contrast and color.

Categories
Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma albiceps (Mexican Rolden Red Rump)

Brachypelma albiceps is also known as the Mexican Golden Red-Rump, Amula Red Rump. I have sometimes seen it referred to as the Mexican Gold-Top.

This spectacular tarantula is often sought by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for being colorful and docile this scrub-land/desert tarantula is extremely hardy. Females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Origin: New World. This scrubland species is native to regions of Guerrero, Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.25-5.75″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact:  B. albiceps is the only Brachypelma to possess a bright yellow-gold carapace.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks and often have slightly more striking contrast and color.

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Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma klaasi (Mexican Pink) Care Sheet

Brachypelma klaasi is also known as the Mexican Pink, Mexican Pink-Leg or Mexican Pink Hair. This spectacular tarantula is coveted by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for being colorful and docile this scrub-land/desert tarantula is extremely hardy. Females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Origin: New World. This scrubland species is native to regions of Jalisco and Nayarit, Mexico.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.25-6″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact:  All Brachypelma species possess some degree of red coloring except for one, B. klaasi. It’s the only pink Brachypelma.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks and often have slightly more striking contrast and color.

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Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma emilia (Mexican Red Leg) Care Sheet

Brachypelma emilia is also known as the Mexican Red Leg. This gorgeous tarantula is collected by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for being colorful and docile this scrub-land/desert tarantula is extremely hardy. Females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Origin: New World. This scrubland species is native to regions of Mexico’s Pacific coast.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 4.25-5.75″

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated they may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 75°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: As they grow and develop, many Brachypelma and Tliltocatl species may sometimes display a faint or somewhat pronounced triangular pattern on the carapace similar to B. emilia however, B. emilia is the only one from either genus to permanently keep it’s trademark triangle. The contrast is faint at first but the colors will grow bolder with each molt. Although juvenile and adult females display bright red and matte black, the mature males tend to have somewhat brighter color.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure. I find they mature are a little smaller than other Brachypelma species so depending on the size of the particular specimen a 7x7x11″ could be a good permanent  enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks and often have slightly more striking contrast and color.

 

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Care Sheets Main Tliltocatl

Tliltocatl albopilosus / Brachypelma albopilosum (Curly hair tarantula) Care sheet

The Curly Hair would have fit in nicely with the 80s big hair scene. It’s long, curly setae “hairs” give this species a very unique appearance, unlike any other tarantula. We not only love this spiders sense of style, it’s also known for being docile (yet skittish), long-lived and quite hardy. For good reason they are one of our most requested and popular beginner tarantulas.

Origin: New World. Native to the tropical scrublands of Nicaragua and Costa Rica.

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 5-6”

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6+ years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated T. albopilosus may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 74°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: We have a Curly Hair in our collection named “Bad Hair Day” who Jon acquired as an adult over 12 years ago. She is the tarantula we have had the longest and she will give us an eggsac nearly every year regardless if we choose to breed her.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure although because Curly Hairs can reach 5-6″ in length we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial as a permeant enclosure for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors and signature curly hairs, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 1 1/4- 1 3/4″ leg-span spiderlings will typically develop a few curly hairs. After 2-2 1/2″ or so the specimens adult coloring and trademark fuzzy appearance is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, fluffy tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks.

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Brachypelma Care Sheets Main

Brachypelma hamorii / smithi (Mexican Red Knee) Care sheet

Brachypelma hamorii is the “Hobby Classic Tarantula”  also known as the Mexican Red Knee  (and formerly B. smithi) this tarantula is coveted by beginners and experienced keepers alike. Known for being large, colorful and docile yet skittish. This scrub-land/desert tarantula is extremely hardy. A long-lived species the females are known to live longer than 30 years.

Origin: New World. Native to the deserts and scrublands of Eastern Mexico

Difficulty: Beginner

Type: Terrestrial

Adult Size: 5-6”

Growth speed: Slow

Longevity: Males 6-14 years, females 20-40 years

Temperament: Docile yet skittish. If agitated B. smithi may flee and/or flick urticating hairs.

Bite potency:  Mild

Urticating hairs: Yes

Ideal Temperature:  70 to 74°

Humidity: Low to Medium

Fun Fact: B. smithi was used in the Indiana Jones Temple of Doom.

Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1 1/4″ we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2″ and under about 4.5 or 5″ can go into a 7x7x11″ complete terrestrial enclosure although because B. hamorri can reach 5-6″ in length we recommend the 8x8x14″ Adult Complete Terrestrial as a permeant enclosure for 2-2.5″ and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.

Substrate: While most B. hamorii adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.

In many cases a larger Red Knee would rather adopt an existing hide than create it’s own. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The B. smithi will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.

Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. Both the  Terrestrial Spiderling and Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit can be set up to encourage burrowing.

Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a desert scrubland species B. smithi will not require frequent misting however, I recommend keeping one corner of B. smithi enclosure lightly misted.

Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found here: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

Coloring & Sexual Dimorphism: Spiderlings are slow to obtain their adult colors, but in my opinion experiencing the transformation is part of the fun of raising a tarantula. It will take a while, typically a few years, but around 3/4-1 1/2″ leg-span spiderlings will typically start showing the first signs of adult coloring. After 1 1/2-2″ or so the specimens adult coloring is usually more prominent. Keep in mind these are estimates and it does vary from specimens to specimen. What a joy it is to witness the transformation of an unassuming brown spiderling into a large, colorful tarantula!

Male and females of this species are typically identical in appearance until maturity. Females will become more stocky with age while males are lankier in overall appearance. Mature males will have tibial hooks and often have slightly more striking contrast and color. Check out our How to Determine Gender Page. At the bottom there is a photo of a mature male and mature female B. hamorii together.

 

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Top 10 Most Common Tarantula Hobby Mistakes

#1 Tarantulas need time to “settle in”

The first week in its new home is an important adjustment period that cannot be ignored or overlooked. Often the hardest thing for beginners is allowing the tarantula time to settle in. I can understand the excitement of a new pet and the equally intense disappointment when the new pet doesn’t eat right out of the box or soon after arrival.  A basic understanding of the tarantulas needs can make both a happy tarantula and a happy keeper.

Keep in mind under normal circumstances my collection eats only once weekly. If something is going on such as a molt or while settling into a new home the tarantula will often take longer before it is ready for a meal.

Do not offer prey immediately upon arrival (if you have already remove all feeders asap) and leave the tarantula alone in a quiet place ideally with low to no light 69-74 degrees. Make sure the tarantula has water in the meantime offered in a shallow wide bowl and/or via misting.

Why won’t it eat? Isn’t it hungry after the trip?

I know the first thing I want to do after getting off an airplane is to gorge myself on some real food, but let’s try to look it from the tarantulas perspective. Keep in mind tarantula has spent most of its life in the same home. The other day it was wrapped in paper towels, put in a vial or cup, bounced around on a truck, a plane, now it’s somewhere completely new. It doesn’t know where it is or how to get home. It feels exposed and vulnerable to attack.

The tarantulas eyes are sensitive enough only to distinguish light and dark. Gradually the tarantula will begin to explore its new surroundings, laying web as it goes. It will use its webs to “feel” its way around the enclosure. If the tarantula is kept quiet and content during the time after arrival it should quickly discover although it can’t get back to where it was before this is a nice, safe place to make a new home. It’s quiet, not too bright and there aren’t other beings or bugs already making their home here that might become a threat.

It will the begin to move substrate (terrestrials) and/or make tube webs. Some might even adopt a hide. Once it makes itself “at home” and it looks hungry then try offering a meal.

You will know Tarantula is hungry because it will typically hang out near the entrance of its home, waiting to pounce on something that wanders too close.

Typically tarantulas won’t eat until they have settled in. This process will take on average about a week sometimes less or more depending on the specific tarantula, age etc.

#2 Feeding

It is important the tarantula receive property-sized feeders. If the prey is too small the tarantula might have a hard time. If the feeders are too large the tarantula will not be able to eat the prey. This can cause great stress and possibly harm to the tarantula.

Ideally, the length of the prey item should be no longer than the spiderlings body length. As tarantulas grow the prey we give them relative to their size will decrease. For adult tarantulas feed prey the same size or smaller than the length of the adults’ carapace. This “rule of thumb” is a basic reference we use to help beginner keepers select feeders their tarantula can easily overpower, although some tarantulas might take larger prey we recommend first starting small.

We do out best to put feeder recommendations in the description of every tarantula we sell. If you have any questions please contact us before ordering!

Ideally the new tarantula should eat what they’re used to eating.  If introduced to a new prey item it can take a little longer for the tarantula to accept food but as long as the feeders are the proper size/type the tarantula will eventually get hungry enough to try something new.

Healthy tarantulas do not eat daily as most mammals do and will often refuse meals for long periods. This is considered normal behavior.

As a basic rule of thumb for 95% of my collection, I feed on a one week rotation. That means everyone gets fed maximum once weekly. I will often skip tarantula for one or even two or more weeks if they are gaining weight too quickly, aren’t hungry or look like they’re in pre-molt. Remember, if the tarantula doesn’t eat the prey in 12-24 hours remove the feeder item and try again in another 3-6 days. If it’s molting wait until it’s finished and all hardened up!

If the tarantula has been consistently shy and/or not eating, even after waiting days to a week or more (depending on species), seemingly healthy and not molting; try offering a pre-killed feeder. It might be enough to boost the tarantulas energy as well as it’s confidence in this new, strange location.

Make sure your feeders are from a verified source. Never feed your tarantula wild caught food!

For more detailed information on feeding please visit:

https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

#3 Misting & Water

The substrate should be subtly moist (somewhat dependent on the species) and the trantula should have “dew” to drink off the sides on the enclosure a few times a week. There is a bit of a learning curve when it comes to misting. We recommend new keepers mist one corner of the enclosure. This way the tarantula can choose between moist and dry substrate and the new keeper can adjust based on the tarantulas preferences.

Tarantulas under about 2″ don’t need nor do we recommend using a water bowl. Once the tarantula is large enough it can be given a shallow, wide dish in order to drink from.

Please note tap and/or well water can contain chemicals that might be harmless to humans but can cause trouble for little tarantula. I have seen DKS result in using tap water and strongly recommend against it. We use RO water for all our tarantulas.

More information on water and misting: https://jamiestarantulas.com/guides/

#4 Housing

It is extremely important the tarantula is housed properly. You’ll want an enclosure that’s not too small or too big. We do out best to put enclosure recommendations in the description of every tarantula we sell. If you have any questions please contact us before ordering!

A spiderling should be housed in a spiderling or similar enclosure, not in an adult enclosure. Kritter Keepers and other such enclosures are not recommended for tarantulas and if a spiderling is housed in one they can possibly escape through the ventilation holes.

The 7 dram vials we use for shipping work excellent for this purpose however, they do NOT make good enclosures.

Do not use screen lids for larger tarantulas as those bigger specimens can get their feet stuck in the mesh. This can result in damaged or severed limbs which, if enough hemolymph (blood) is lost the tarantula may perish. Luckily spiderlings and juveniles are far too small to have issues with mesh which is why fine mesh can be safely used for housing spiderlings and juveniles.

Never use a heat lamp or put the enclosure in a spot it will receive any amount of direct sunlight. The greenhouse effect can quickly raise the enclosure to dangerous temperatures. We do not recommend using a heat pad. In the colder months if your home is not heated (or heated much) you may want to designate a small closet or bathroom to keep “room temperature” for the tarantulas comfort. There are some species who are more tolerant than others of cooler temperatures. 60’s is too cold (in my opinion) for Avicularia purpurea where most Aphonopelma are fine at this temperature.

Tarantulas are sensitive to vibration. Putting them on a shelf or something that constantly vibrates (such as loud speakers or a pump) can potentially bother your new pet.

#5 Choose a tarantula that’s a “good fit”

…and not too small! Please do research as not every species will be a good fit for you. We recommend beginners start with a New World species with a minimum 1″ leg-span. The beginners section of the website is a great place to start. The larger  tarantulas are typically easier to care for.

Our most popular beginner picks are Brachypelma & Grammostola species. These two genus contain the majority of our most requested beginner species including (but definitely not limited to!) B. hamorii (Red Knee), B. albopilosum (Curly hair), B. auratum (Flame knee), B. baumgarteni, B. klaasi (Mexican pink), B vegans etc. G. pulchra (Brazilian Black), G. pulchripes (Chaco), G. porteri (Pink rose hair) etc.

C. cyaneopubescens is also known as green bottle blue or “GBB” for short. The species are popular with beginners due to their mild bite, fast growth rate, excellent appetite and exquisite coloring!

Acanthoscurria, Aphonopelma, Euathlus, Lasiodora & Nhandu are also quite popular beginner picks. Avicularia and Caribena over 1.5-2″ leg-span can make a good beginner tarantula.

Mature males do not make good pets as they are will put the majority of their time and effort into finding a mate. Mature males are sometimes so determined they will refuse food! Sadly these bachelors don’t have long to live as they’ve had their final or “ultimate” molt.

Young, immature males of slower-growing species can make great pets. They will typically look and act just like their female siblings until they have their ultimate molt. We hope their owner will do their best to find the bachelor a date once he is mature!

#6 Do not disturb even if you don’t immediately see the tarantula!

Often time new keepers, worried their little friend has gone missing, will pull apart the tarantulas home in attempt to “find it.” Not only does this cause the tarantula a great deal of stress, I have known tarantulas to be harmed or lost in the frantic search for the “missing” spiderling.

We usually see this sort of thing happen to those who order a spiderling too small for their experience level. A 1” or larger spiderlings kept in a spiderling enclosure will be a lot easier to visually keep track of vs. something 1/2” and under.

Please give the tarantula time time to settle in. It is likely the tarantula will be out of sight for a few days to weeks while adjusting. Also likely the tarantula will hide if it’s molting, not hungry or just doesn’t want to be bothered. It’s not going to risk potentially exposing itself to predators if there is nothing to be gained. Please be patient and continue to mist as usual. The tarantula will come out in each of food when it is ready.

#7 Handling 

I consider Tarantulas observational pets although many people (including my own mother) think otherwise. When I first got into the hobby I did purchase my first tarantula thinking I would handle, but quickly realized the stress it caused the C. versicolor. Handling not only stressed the little guy out, it typically resulted in damage to it’s home and put it at unnecessary risk of injury or even death.

Also, at first I didn’t notice the urticating hairs, however I quickly developed a reaction to them. Being itchy for a day or two after handling and the red spots all over my hands made it even less appealing.

Tarantulas are not domestic animals and will often act unpredictably. I do not handle my specimens except when absolutely necessary in the case of emergency typically as a result of packing, rehousing, breeding etc. We do not recommend handling for the safety of you and your tarantula.

Why risk it?

A tarantula comfortable in it’s environment is a fascinating pet! Depending on the species and specimen you might have one who is an excellent little dirt-mover, or another who creates wondrous tube webs. One might be a pet hole, but when it feeds oh boy that one second I see that specimen every week is worth it! Why chance handling it?

If the risk is not enough to discourage keepers from handling I can personally attest the urticating hairs are not worth it.

When I first started the hobby I had little to no reaction to urticating hairs and that went on for a few months. Soon I would have a little bit of a reaction and from there it snowballed. If I get  hairs flicked at me I’m itching for days!

Still want to handle your tarantula?

I have heard enough sad stories of hobbyists loosing a favorite specimen as a result of a drop. Tarantulas are not built for falling and handling puts them at considerable risk when compared to leaving them in the safety and comfort of their enclosure. Please think of what is best for your new pet!

After considering all this, for those who still wish to handle should always test the specimens reactions with a paintbrush or other soft object first. Only consider handling on the floor or other safe area where the tarantula cannot fall or escape.

Any species with a potent bite should always be observed from a distance!

#8 Molting

Molting is a very difficult time for the tarantula. It must push off it’s entire exoskeleton and then wait for days to weeks until it has hardened. During this time the tarantula is incredibly vulnerable. It’s fangs are soft and useless, and it’s body is remarkably fragile. Feeders left roaming the enclosure can and sometimes do cause damage and/or death.

If a specimen is in the molting process avoid moving or otherwise disturbing the tarantula. This will can potentially decrease it’s chances of success.

#9 Pestecide, Mold & Mildew Exposure

We touched on this in #3 Food & Water. Please don’t use tap water for your tarantula as it can potentially cause health issues including but not limited to DKS.

Other ways the tarantula can be exposed to harmful pesticides might include a neighbor tenting and/or bug-bombing, pesticides sprayed outside then tracked in on shoes or though a breezy window, pets in the house wearing a flea collar, advantage or similar product, recent treatment for bedbugs or ants etc.

We have also seen tarantula collections have health and/or DKS issues as a result of mold and/or mildew in the owners home.

#10 Follow the Live Arrival & Health Guarantee terms:

I believe our live arrival guarantee terms are very reasonable. We require for one hour contact for non-signature and within 48 hours for signature*. Hold for pickup we require contact the same day as arrival*. If you’d like the 5 day guarantee just send us a photo of the rehoused tarantula within that time* Please see our up-to-date shipping schedule and *full Live Arrival Guarantee terms are listed here:

https://jamiestarantulas.com/shipping-policy/

When order is placed the customer must click a box upon checkout that says “I have read and agree to the terms including the shipping and live arrival guarantee  terms” (weather the terms are read or not) that is a legally binding contract. That means we will ALWAYS honor our live arrival and health guarantee provided we are contacted in the timeframe specified in our shipping and live arrival guarantee terms…That also means customers MUST follow those terms in order to be covered… yet still some people for some reason cannot follow the LAG terms and those same people almost always make some kind of stupid excuse and expect me to personally cover their cooked or frozen invert like it’s no big deal.

Please, please, please don’t be this person

That spider I personally packed and shipped with love and care. That same tarantula I have been caring for and keeping not just alive, but happy and healthy for many months to years… I do not think people understand the time, effort and care I personally put into all my taranutlas. Like I don’t mind paying for and shipping another prized pet because the first one died due to carelessness?  Honestly this drives me crazy more than just about anything on this planet.

Keep in mind if I made one exception it is only fair that I do it for everyone. At that point I might as well not have LAG terms and would have to raise my prices accordingly, assuming I’m going to have to cover all animals that perish due to customer neglect.

I kindly ask if this is going to be you please don’t order from us. I don’t want your money, excuses and potentialy bad press in exchange for a dead spider. That is a crappy trade and everyone looses, especially the poor tarantula. Although this is #10 on our top 10 beginner mistakes it is certainly my #1 pet peeve running a tarantula business, and so easily avoidable!

We want your spider to be safe and for you to be covered under our live arrival and extended health guarantee so if you have any questions or concerns, especially regarding safe arrival please contact us BEFORE you order. We are happy to make special arrangements such as hold for pickup at a specific location, ship a specific time etc.

Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions!

 

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DKS – Dyskinetic Syndrome in Tarantulas

DKS – Dyskinetic Syndrome in Tarantulas

What is Dyskinetic Syndrome?

Dyskinetic Syndrome (often referred to as “DKS”) is not a specific disease, but rather a set of symptoms which typically include:
-Jerky and/or twitchy movements
-Loss of motor control (inducing difficulty or inability to walk, eat and drink)
-In some cases, lifting of the legs above the carapace

What causes DKS?

Sometimes when a tarantula gets DKS we’re able to narrow the cause down. Often it is a result of pesticide exposure which can come in contact with the tarantula in many ways such as:

-Tap or well water used to water, mist and/or hydrate substrate
-Feeders exposed to pesticides
-Pet with flea collar, “advantage” or similar product
-Tracked in on clothing/shoes (from spraying/dusting outside)
-Termite tenting (previously in home, or a neighbors home)
-Bed bug treatment
-Ant eradication etc.

Chemical exposure (such as from household cleaners, aerosols) have also been reported to cause DKS symptoms.

I have also known hobbyists to loose specimens to DKS who later found out they had mold/mildew in their homes ventilation system.

Some hobbyists have reported a specimen exhibiting DKS symptoms after a bad or difficult molt although I do not believe I have not had this happen in my collection.

Is there any cure?
DKS is nearly always fatal. Although it is extremely unlikely for a tarantula to recover, I have had a few hobbyists report to me their specimen made a full recovery. Please give your tarantula fighting chance by helping it eat and drink!